Fabric Label Tutorial

As everyone knows, nothing makes textile product (purses, wallets, clothing) like a personalized fabric label. There are a few ways to get them either by buying them or learning some mad embroidery skills. Another option is to hand stencil them yourself.


A fresh batch of labels.

It's all really simple actually. You only need a plastic stencil of some sort (you can make that cheaply yourself as well) and some fabric safe ink.

Supplies needed:
A plastic stencil (I cut mine out of a transparency sheet)
Screen-printing ink or any fabric safe ink
Ribbon or strip of fabric
A brush
Spray adhesive (optional, but it helps the stencil stay on the surface)


Step 1: Stencil Prep

Place the fabric strip on a clean surface and prepare the stencil by spraying the back with spray adhesive. Let the stencil dry a bit so the adhesive is only slightly tacky, this will help it stick very closely to the fabric and avoid any bleeding from the stencil shifting. Then place the label carefully over the strip and decide where you want the text to be.


Step 2: Secure that Stencil

Press the stencil securely to the fabric and carefully make sure everything is where you want it. I like to press gently along the length of the stencil instead of sliding, because some lettering elements might be shifted.


Step 3: Painting Time

Put some paint on a nearby surface (paper works) and spread it around so the brush is slightly dry. The wetter the paint, the more likely it will bleed. Gently dab the paint into the stencil.


Step 4: Reveal Your Handiwork

Make sure to remove any excess paint. Unless you're working with vinyl or another heavy material, the paint should soak into the surface of the fabric. Allow the paint to rest briefly and then carefully peel back the stencil.


Step 5: Finishing Up

Let them dry for a bit and there you have it--a very nice fabric label. Make sure to follow the instructions on the paint about drying time and setting before putting it to use.


Good luck!

Resin and bubbles

The bane of every resin worker...or so it seems. However bubbles don't have to always ruin your creations--it just depends on the type of bubbles you end up with. In fact, I believe there are three kinds of bubbles that occur in resin.

1. The Flaw Bubble - large bubbles that are usually near the edge of the resin mold or bezel you just poured. Basically popping these while sanding or cutting will result in holes and other noticeable flaws.

The fix: Make sure to pour the resin before it starts to cure to avoid difficult bubbles. Also keep agitation to a minimum. If bubbles still form, use a heat gun or pop with a pin.*

2. The Decorative Bubble - medium sized to small bubbles that occur near or under objects that retain air like paper, thread or botanical objects. Some folks quite like the resulting effect and don't considered flaws.

The fix: Make sure to seal them with modge podge or some extra resin before adding to the resin to avoid bubbles getting trapped. Also make sure to remove any bubbles from the resin before adding objects to it.

3. The Invisible Bubble - nearly imperceptible miniature bubbles that occur in the center of the mold or bezel.
The fix: I don't think there is one, but most of the fixes mentioned could help. Even if it doesn't, this type of bubble is fairly common and not considered a flaw, just the nature of resin.

*two other methods are blowing onto the resin through a straw (the CO2 helps pop the bubbles) and exposing the resin to an open flame (but be careful it's flammable). Neither are the safest options, so I don't particularly endorse them...in fact pretend you didn't hear it from me.


Here are a few tutorials I've found which were pretty helpful. Check them out.
Craft Zombie: Resin Bubbles
Two Crafty Mules: Polishing Resin
All Over Art: Resin Finishes for Tile Pendants